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Ballasting Your Layout - Ballast - Part 3
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Scenery - Trackwork
Written by Scott Jay   
Sunday, 17 February 2008 19:00
Article Index
Ballasting Your Layout
Ballast - Part 2
Ballast - Part 3
All Pages

 

Well, now that things are beginning to settle down around here it's time I post the last in my series on ballasting. In this section, I'll step you through un-sticking those now well-glued turnouts (it's hard to avoid), and some final touchups that will make ho-hum model track stand out from the rest.

I got a little ahead of myself, I'm rather new to this tutorial thing, and messed up the order of things a bit. Please disregard the color of the ballast, for now.

Like I said in my introduction to this article, if you ballast turnouts, it is virtually impossible to avoid gluing them in place. The good thing is white glue does not take well to plastic and metal, so with a little bit of work you can have them moving freely in no time. These turnouts have long wires (throw rods) attached to the turnout on one end - and a Caboose Hobbies ground throw on the other end. To avoid damage to the ground throw, I removed the arm from the base before I worked at the turnout. Then, in this case, I used a pair of pliers to push/pull on the throw rod to loosen the turnout's point rails. After I broke the glue bond, the turnout was still a little stiff to move, so I applied a few drops of rubbing alcohol to further loosen the glue. After a few push/pulls with the pliers, I re-installed the arm of the ground throw. The turnout may be stuck again after the alcohol dries, so you might have to repeat this process. Eventually, after two or three tries, you will not have to apply alcohol and the turnout will not stick again. So don't ballast track just before an operating session.

I've been told that nail heads in a tie can ruin an otherwise great picture and look like doggie-do between the rails. So, if you don't have a large pack of wild railfanning dogs on your layout, now is a good time to remove those track nails. The glue and ballast is more than enough to hold your track in place.

I use a pair of needle nose, or small wire cutters, to remove nails. Use whatever you are comfortable with to grab the nail head and pull up the nail.

The next step will help define the ties. You're going to think I'm crazy for even suggesting this, but it's time to paint the ties. It really doesn't take very long, a few minutes really, since all we're doing is highlighting them.

Remember the coffee I had when I started this series? It was still sitting there two days later. The cover makes a very good palette. Put on a few drops of your favorite tie-weathering colors. I used a rust, grey, and off-white. I didn't use much of the rust color. I dipped a stiff brush in the grey, brushed most of it off and then quickly wiped the brush along the ties, not being fussy about the coverage. After I finished with the grey, I cleaned and dried the brush, dipped it in the white, and wiped off most of the paint. The technique I used is called dry-brushing - I just brushed the high spots and ends of the ties.

Finally, if the area you are working on hasn't seen much maintenance, there will be a lot of oil and grease on the ballast, especially around turnouts. I tried a new method in this area - black acrylic paint thinned with windshield washer fluid. The fluid works great for thinning acrylic paint for airbrushing, so I figured I'd give it a try.

I used an old contact lens cleaner bottle to mix and apply the thinned paint. Have a look at photos of real track to see how much blackening and where to put it.

So, in the end you'll have something that looks like this. Yours will likely look a whole lot better than mine.

My next posts on scenery will deal with grass and bushes. I'll use this area for those posts. You'll see how the area will change over time and how everything blends together.

Until then - happy modeling!

Scott




 

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