Here are the tools I used to put the kit together:

• X-Acto Knife (Make sure it's new blade)
• Elmer's White Glue
• CA Adhesive (Crazy Glue)
• Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders
• Toothpicks (for applying the CA adhesive) 
• Paint Brushes & Q-Tips (for applying the weathering powders)
• A pair of fine point tweezers

The kit came neatly packed in a small zip lock bag...

 ...and here's what was inside.

The kit came with a very nicely printed set of instructions complete with pictures and an accurate parts legend.

What's nice about this kit is that the window frames and sashes were made out of an off-white colored  wood so that saved me the hassle of trying paint it.  If you do plan on painting this kit, the instructions recommend you paint the main shack parts on both sides to minimize warping.  I opted for using Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders instead to save time (and as you'll see the powders work pretty good). One important thing to keep in mind is that the wood is very thin and and the parts are delicate (especially the windows) so you'll want to use a fresh blade to cut the parts out of the frames.

I started out by removing the wood that filled the doorways and windows. Save the doorway pieces. You'll need to use those for the backs of the doors.

I then applied the Doc O'Brien's powder to the main Shack parts while they were still in frames using cheap paint brushes.

I later switched to using Q-Tips since that allowed me to rub the powder in better.

Once I had the main shack parts colored I carefully cut out the window frames and sashes.

The window frames come with self-stick adhesive on the back for sticking the frames to the shack and the window panes to the sashes.  All you need to do is peel a thin film off the back to expose the adhesive.

I started gluing the sashes in place by putting a thin layer of Elmer's white glue around the edge of the sash and putting it into the shack frame.

Once the glue dried I carefully removed the film from the back of the sash so I could stick one of the plastic "windows" that came with the kit on the sash.  Just gently pick the back of the sash with an X-acto knife until the film starts to peel up.  Then gently pull the rest of the film off with the tweezers and stick the window pane to the back of the sash.

You can also install your windows so that they are partially open. The instructions suggest gluing the top sash so that it sticks half way out of the thickness of the shack frame and then gluing the bottom frame behind it.   I have a feeling that's probably a lot easier to do in HO scale than it is for N.  The N scale wood is really thin so instead I opted for gluing the top sash fully into the shack frame and then tipping the bottom sash forwards so that the bottom edge of of the sash made full contact with shack frame.  It's not an elegant solution but the results look fairly decent. 

I tried something different for the front set of windows.  The kit comes with frames that stick to the outside of the shack.  I thought "Hey, why not just put the top sashes in the outer frame, the bottom sashes in the shack frame and then stick the two parts together"!  The results were definitely acceptable to me. 

Here's all the shack parts with the windows in place.

Next I started working on the doors.  I took the wood pieces that I had saved earlier, colored them with the powder, removed the adhesive film from the backs of the door frames and stuck the backs to the frames. 

I started assembling the shack by gluing the center partition first with CA adhesive.

I then proceeded to glue the sides, front, and back of the shack together.  I applied the CA adhesive using a toothpick along the inside edges of the shack and along the bottom of the floor.

I wanted to have one of the doors partially open so I took one door, dipped the long edge of the door in CA adhesive and jammed it into the corner where the center partition meets the side of the shack.

Next, I glued on the roof support and the skylight.  I attached the skylight by putting CA Adhesive on the top edges of the shack sides and roof support.

 Now I was ready to put on the roof.  I did run into one snag however.  The parts fit together by tongue and groove and  that works great to keep things aligned.  The problem was that the center partition wasn't aligned vertically at 90 degrees so that the tongues on top of the partition didn't line up with the grooves in the roof.  It was a survivable mistake;  I just cut the tongues off the center partition.  You may want to invest in some modeler's jigs if you intend on doing a lot of Laser kits. I know MicroMark's got a bunch of them. 

 The kit comes with an ample supply of roofing material. I cut the strips of "Tar Paper" in half and started gluing them on the roof in layers starting at the bottom edge of the roof and working my way up to the center.

For the center cap piece I took a strip of roofing and cut away the straight edge with my X-Acto knife gently rocking the blade as I cut so I would get an uneven edge.

Here's some pictures of the finished shack.

This is the first laser kit I ever built(no kidding!).  The only layout I've had where I actually built structures for it was my first one when I was 8 and I made those out of corrugated cardboard.  Up until now I've never gotten to the point where I needed to make buildings for my layout.  The folks at RS Laser put a lot of thought into designing this kit.  The instructions were clear and the tongue and grooves on the parts helped keep everything aligned.  In spite of a couple of screw ups the shack came out looking pretty spiffy (and I had a blast putting it together).

Cheers

E

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